There were none of the Major League Baseball references he’s used of late, and logos for the most part were eliminated. Michele called the sneakers “game changers,” for the way they’ve liberated women from heels. A few of the models carried trainers from the laces, like handbags. Different identities to slip into and out of as easily as a woman changes her Gucci sneakers for mismatched gold and silver platforms. Pierrot collars, in contrast, seemed to speak of childhood whimsy and innocence, as did the nonsense words ice, lolly, and sucker that appeared throughout. Many of the pieces were unfinished, with basting stitches tracing seams or the outline of outsize lapels, and raw edges elsewhere. He emphasized the sober ’40s tailoring of his grandmother’s generation in jackets worn by men and women: shoulders sharp, waists nipped, and trouser legs full above ankles cinched with cord. The collection was as “full of little things” as always, many of them deeply personal-there’s comfort in the familiar, even for a guy as free associative as Michele. But he sees clothes in the same way they’re the means by which we become what we feel we are, an open possibility. Hearing enhancing? Or hearing obliterating? The masks were runway artifice, not for sale, Michele said postshow-not with those 2-inch spikes. More subtle, but just as thought-provoking: the metal ear coverings. At the press conference afterwards, Michele explained his fascination, saying, “A mask is hollow but also full.” It conceals and reveals it’s a defense and a welcome sign disorienting and its opposite. Then there were the masks: Jason Voorhees masks, fetish store masks with 2-inch-long spikes, a stupendous brass eagle with talons clutching the jawline. And the show he put on today was harsh and destabilizing in the extreme, not unlike the world outside the Gucci hub, complete with lions gnashing their teeth on the soundtrack and lights pulsating brightly enough to make your retinas scream. Not least of all, Michele is a showman nonpareil. He reoriented fashion towards individuality, and he blasted gender norms wide open, giving us Jared Leto in a dress-over-pants in the process. The brand performance firm Launchmetrics estimated the wedding earned the fashion label $25.4m in media impact value.Alessandro Michele’s powers are many. Dolce & Gabbana dressed the bride and her family for the four-day event, during which vows were exchanged at the designers’ Portofino home, and guests transported in boats liveried in Dolce & Gabbana prints. ![]() ![]() The long-running love-in between the Kardashians and Dolce & Gabbana was made official in May when the designers hosted Kourtney Kardashian’s wedding to Travis Barker. Kardashian’s social media channels have teased closeup shots of jeans with a “Kim x Dolce & Gabbana” label, while a much-photographed visit to the designers’ Milan headquarters by the businesswoman and model, clad in a crystal-studded catsuit, has fuelled rumours of a fashion collaboration. ![]() The glamorous and mutually lucrative love affair between the Milanese powerhouse Dolce & Gabbana and the Kardashians, the first family of pop culture, is set for a public display of affection with Kim Kardashian as the star turn at the Dolce & Gabbana show on Saturday afternoon. Photograph: Monic/GucciĪnother piece of catwalk theatre is expected at Milan fashion week this weekend. Models walk the runway of the Gucci Twinsburg show in Milan, Italy.
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